India 9: clean air and good food in Bhubaneshwar

A clean world met us at the train station in Bhubaneshwar. A storm so intense it dropped hail and broke branches off trees had just passed through, making it possible for us to breathe freely for the first time since we'd arrived in India.

After getting settled in at Siddhi Mandap, we took a walk through Old Town. Raj pointed out the temples and tanks that are getting cleaned up, the new walls, plazas and plantings around the main pond. A pretty different scene from Benares, where the much beloved Ganga Math was replaced by a shopping mall.

How come Bhubaneshwar has the sense to preserve its Old Town, I asked, when so many other places in India are letting the boom take over? It's Ileana, said Raj. She has influence in high places. Ah.

The next day we had food at one of the main temples, Mahaprasad, sacred food of the highest order cooked by Raj's family, longtime priests of the temple kitchens (which feed 3000-5000 people a day!) It was - as it was the last time we were there - probably the best food we ate on our whole journey. Mmm.

doorway to Ganga Math, East/West center at Assi Ghat, Benares, 1968-2007