India 8: the boom hits Vindhyachal
Three years ago I wrote a post called "Pilgrimage to Vindhyachal".
This year we made the same pilgrimage, but it took half the time to get there because now there's a modern highway leading up the Ganges.
Of course, highway driving in India is not the same as highway driving elsewhere. In India, there may be traffic rules on the books, but people follow the same rules they have always followed walking in crowds: look forward, fill any empty space, and don't bump into anyone. It's pretty amazing how well it works in crowds of people, cattle, rickshaws and an occasional scooter. Speeding along a four lane road, however, it is very scary! The double line at the center means nothing; a median strip only means its harder to get back onto the other side.
But the gods were with us and we arrived safely. The temples were crowded as always, but we had a wonderful meal served on banana leaves as we sat cross-legged on the ground at a traditional rest house for pilgrims.
Our visit to Dinesh Baba's house brought the biggest surprise, though. Atop the ruin he and his family have made into a pleasant home is a satellite dish! Indian MTV poured out of the open doorway as we sat around the dhuni chatting. Dinesh Baba himself sported a fresh haircut and had stopped drinking and smoking. The happy result of this effort at fitting into the mainstream is that his daughter is engaged to be married. Who would've thought.
Dinesh Baba in 2005
This year we made the same pilgrimage, but it took half the time to get there because now there's a modern highway leading up the Ganges.
Of course, highway driving in India is not the same as highway driving elsewhere. In India, there may be traffic rules on the books, but people follow the same rules they have always followed walking in crowds: look forward, fill any empty space, and don't bump into anyone. It's pretty amazing how well it works in crowds of people, cattle, rickshaws and an occasional scooter. Speeding along a four lane road, however, it is very scary! The double line at the center means nothing; a median strip only means its harder to get back onto the other side.
But the gods were with us and we arrived safely. The temples were crowded as always, but we had a wonderful meal served on banana leaves as we sat cross-legged on the ground at a traditional rest house for pilgrims.
Our visit to Dinesh Baba's house brought the biggest surprise, though. Atop the ruin he and his family have made into a pleasant home is a satellite dish! Indian MTV poured out of the open doorway as we sat around the dhuni chatting. Dinesh Baba himself sported a fresh haircut and had stopped drinking and smoking. The happy result of this effort at fitting into the mainstream is that his daughter is engaged to be married. Who would've thought.
Dinesh Baba in 2005
posted by Eve at 8:26 AM
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